Restaurants in Tokyo are known for shokunin, the people who focus on a single skill to the point of obsession. These chefs dedicate their lives to the smallest details of a cuisine: the optimal temperature for the oil when frying tempura, the perfect texture for sushi rice, the ideal sear on grilled unagi. This long-term commitment separates Tokyo from the other great dining cities in the world, and it has fostered a lot of continuity in the restaurant scene; some of the earliest restaurants in Tokyo also served sushi, tempura, and unagi, along with oyakodon chicken and eggs over rice, soba, sukiyaki, tonkatsu, and other specialties still represented in restaurants today.
Though Tokyo is infamous for a few highly regarded spots that are impossible to get into without an introduction by a regular, visitors will find more than enough to love across the massive dining metropolis: a casual stand-and-eat noodle shop, sake-friendly sweets, a whole street dedicated to the local take on okonomiyaki, and more.
For a rejuvenating start to the day indulge with a Japanese breakfast at Yakumo Saryo. Designed by architect Shinichiro Ogata, the teahouse is a tranquil space offering a morning of peace and mindfulness. The asacha (morning tea) set breakfast includes a variety of teas, porridge, fish, pickles, miso soup, and wagashi (confections) to finish. Reservations are required.
Kozue has some of the best views in the metropolis from the 40th floor of the iconic Park Hyatt Tokyo, a view made famous in Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation. Chef Nobuhiro Yoshida sources seafood directly from fishermen, who send him photos or videos of their catch while they’re still out at sea so that selections arrive the same day to the restaurant. Seasonal sashimi is presented over a bowl of crushed ice and wagyu beef hot pot arrives on exquisite tableware. Elevate the meal with a flight of sake from the impressive list.
Hiroyasu Kayama’s atmospheric, candle-lit ninth-floor hideaway is one of Tokyo’s most compelling bars, with shelves crammed with rare spirits and jars of obscure aromatics, and drinks just as likely to involve a mortar and pestle as a cocktail shaker. Sink into one of the half-dozen armchairs at the ancient-wood counter and give Kayama carte blanche to work his mixologist magic. Best to get there early, though: Bar Benfiddich’s fame extends far beyond the Shinjuku back streets.
There’s no shortage of soba specialists in Tokyo, but few manage to create noodles quite as flavorful and satisfying as those at Tamawarai. Each batch is made from scratch — the dough mixed, rolled, and cut by hand — and much of it with buckwheat the restaurant helps to grow. The side dishes, such as soba miso and the wonderfully creamy yuba (tofu skin), are prepared with equal care. Tamawarai does not accept reservations, so despite the less-than-convenient location in a residential neighborhood between Shibuya and Harajuku, you will invariably find yourself standing in line for up to an hour to get in.